Low Interest Loan available to rising Seniors

Not to be a nitpicker but in case someone else is confused...
The tax advantages of a ROTH IRA do not kick in until you start withdrawing your money, which is done tax free.
The tax advantages of a TRADITIONAL IRA kick in when you deposit the money. You pay incomes taxes on the money when you withdraw it.
 
1. Income taxes --- investing 5K automatically helps from this perspective

Not sure what you mean here:confused:
It may help 40 years down the road depending on where that road takes us. Since a Roth is done with after tax income, I am not sure what you are getting at. Please enlighten me.
 
packer,

I think you xposted with kinnem

I am unfortunately old enough to remember the conversion of Traditional and Roth. I am also naive enough to believe if things change for IRAs they will change like the 90s regarding Traditional and ROTH.

Our Roths are with Fidelity Investments. We have had them for decades, and they are mutual funds traded on the SP. The only thing that changed was Traditional to Roth, investment didn't. Meanwhile, it has not only split, but also split again and that was a 3 to 1 share

We never ever invested with USAA, never purchased a mtg with USAA. We also have used other insurance companies for our home owner insurance.

USAA is great. I am only saying that when it comes to pinching pennies, don't assume it is the best.

FWIW...here is our profile
1. Renters Insurance ---- USAA all the way
2. Car insurance --- USAA all the way
2. Credit cards ---- USAA all the way
3. Banking --- USAA all the way

USAA also has a bennie...subscriber check every December.

Why not to use USAA

~Mortgages not so much. Look for funding costs---typically 1% of the loan.
~Home owners insurance ---iffy ---high risk areas like AK or flood prone areas may be better with local companies
~Car loans ---they don't offer 0% loans like auto manufacturers.
 
We never ever invested with USAA, never purchased a mtg with USAA. We also have used other insurance companies for our home owner insurance.

USAA is great. I am only saying that when it comes to pinching pennies, don't assume it is the best.

FWIW...here is our profile
1. Renters Insurance ---- USAA all the way
2. Car insurance --- USAA all the way
2. Credit cards ---- USAA all the way
3. Banking --- USAA all the way

USAA also has a bennie...subscriber check every December.

Why not to use USAA

~Mortgages not so much. Look for funding costs---typically 1% of the loan.
~Home owners insurance ---iffy ---high risk areas like AK or flood prone areas may be better with local companies
~Car loans ---they don't offer 0% loans like auto manufacturers.

Not trying to pick a fight here, but there are a couple of problems with financing a new vehicle through the automaker that our younger members should understand:
1) That 0% (or other steeply discounted rate) is reserved for borrows having the highest credit ratings and may be limited to 3-year notes. Borrowers requiring longer loans (4 or 5 year) or having less than prime credit scores will get rates that are higher than the 2.9% USAA is offering on its starter loan.

2) Unless you have a credit history (have had a real job and had real credit issued in YOUR name - not just using mommy and daddy's card that has your name on it), you will most likely not have a credit score high enough to qualify for the above mentioned special financing. Those of you in the guard who have been collecting a check and perhaps have had your own credit cards for a while may be eligible, but I'd check your credit score and the score requirements before taking a test drive.

3) Often that 0% rate is offered in lieu of a rebate. Most of the time you will be far better off taking the rebate considering the 2.9% from USAA as the alternative. Of course the math depends upon the amount financed and the amount of the rebate and the length and rate of the loan. Find an online calculator for car loans and put the numbers in.
 
goaliedad,

As far as the automobile loan, our DS not only got the 0%, but also because he could show that he was now a military member he got the military discount on top of it, and at that time that was the only discount they offered...no 0% or XyZ thousands off.

DS also did it on his own, no Mommy or Daddy. His credit score was 720, because what he did do as a rising junior was open his own USAA account. He had over 2 yrs of credit history. He had also as a freshman in college had a checking account credit line, which he never touched, except 1x, so that helped him too. I am not talking the type that is actually savings and the bank move it over if you bounce, but an actual 1K limit which automatically employed if you bounced.

Our DD is a jr. now in college, and she too has a 700+ credit score, she has 1 major credit card and 1 store, both that she got on her own with no co-signors.

It is doable to be 21 and have a 700+. Our DS's only pay income was ROTC stipend. Our DD works 9 hrs a week on campus during the school yr., and that is her annual income (summers are spent working with philanthropic organizations like Young Life and Make a Wish, thus no pay, just work experience).

As for his interest rate it is 3.375% which is only .5625% higher than the USAA loan. Remember USAA does not offer a 0 or 1% loan, it is hovering right under 3% currently.

In the end, it is a personal decision which way anyone goes. The only issue that I think everyone will agree upon, is don't over extend yourself because as an O1 you won't be making tons of money, and since unlike your college buds that can boomerang home to live with the folks rent free upon graduation, you won't. You will need to be able to set up your 1st home somewhere and no matter how cheap you can do it, it is still going to cost a couple of thousand to do it between the furniture, linens, dishes and deposits. If you use all of that 25K to pay off the loans, what will you use to buy a mattress and boxspring? Credit cards at 9%?

Finally, there is an assumption that even used cars are cheap, they are not. As I stated our DS got his for 15 and change, brand new, 0 mileage. If he went to carmax he could have purchased a 2011 same style/package with 41K for 13 and change. That is 20% off, 1 yr older, but it has 41K miles, which means no warranty, and within a yr or two he will be needing new tires at least, which would mean 500 or so out of pocket, he probably would need new brakes too at that time, which is another 400-500. Now add in a battery too. What another 200 or so? I have just spent 1200 on top of that car payment at the 2.9% interest so in the 1st 3 yrs., for our DS he has actually come out ahead. The cheapest corolla he could have bought used runs @10K for a 7 yr old with 112K miles.

I don't see using the USAA loan for a used car as necessarily the best option, I could go with the used car if we had the cash lying around, thus no car payment at all, but we didn't have 10K. Honestly, even if we did we wouldn't have given it, because to be fair to our other kids we would need to drop that every 2 yrs. for a total of 6 yrs.

It is not as I am opposed to buying a used car, our DD is doing that this yr...on her own, has been saving every penny for 2+ yrs and she will pay all cash. For her that is a wise decision. However, she also won't be hauling it x country to her 1st job. Nor will she be moving every yr or so for her 1st 3 yrs. She will be a boomerang graduate and living back at home. Her car breaks down she can borrow the folks for a couple of days. She won't be setting up her 1st home, so 500 for breaks will just equal no new clothes for a few months, it is not going to impact how much food will be in her fridge or how long she can take a shower to save money on her water bill.

Like I said, it is a personal decision, and for my family, it was smarter to take the 0% loan and a smaller USAA loan.

You have to ask yourself, how much are you willing to spend, and how. How much will it cost for the upkeep of an older car compared to a new car. If you are placing 100 a month aside for the brakes, tires, future repairs...is it now really cheaper in the long run when you have a car pmt on top of that? Are you only going to keep the car for 3 yrs or do you plan to run it into the ground...if so, does the depreciation really matter? Wouldn't the 3 yr bumper to bumper warranty, no repair bills outweigh that depreciation. Using the example of the corolla, that 20% comes with 41K miles on a car and no warranty at all.

I don't think either is right or wrong, it is just how you want to spend your money. Cars are not cheap either way you look at it.
 
Also, since we are on the car issue, there will be cars that depreciate faster, so I have to say, using our DSs car buying used wasn't saving that much money since they retain their value. Now had he purchased a Jeep Grand Cherokee I would be with you, because a 4 yr old with 50K miles, can be picked up for 18K compared to a brand new one that would run in the 30-35K+ range.

The depreciation in that scenario would outweigh the repair costs for yrs.

Than again, DS didn't buy a flashy car, he bought one that he could keep for a decade, and IMPO, Toyotas, and honda are the best bang for the buck is that is the route you want to go. We owned a Honda for 12 yrs., and only got rid of it because we had 3 cars and had to PCS. Owning that car for so long, allowed us to save money and buy Bullet's dream car when he made O4...C-5 Vette. It was the 1st time in our marriage of 15 yrs he got the new car, not the hand me down.:wink:
 
We owned a Honda for 12 yrs., and only got rid of it because we had 3 cars and had to PCS. Owning that car for so long, allowed us to save money and buy Bullet's dream car when he made O4...C-5 Vette. It was the 1st time in our marriage of 15 yrs he got the new car, not the hand me down.:wink:
Now that sounds more like a pilots car!:wink:
 
It is that time of year again. To take the loan or not- that is the question.
Version 20.13

Wait, what? It is really that already for my DS? :eek:
 
It is that time of year again. To take the loan or not- that is the question.
Version 20.13

Wait, what? It is really that already for my DS? :eek:

Time does seem to fly by doesn't it.

My son did take the loan, but his service obligation will end up being about 7 1/2 to 8 years so the repayment time of 5 years would fit well within that timeframe.

Those that have only the 4 year obligation and take the loan should at least make an increased payment so the loan is paid off during their active duty obligation so they don't end up having a year left on the loan if they get out after 4.
 
A little known option for those O-1's that really want to save on housing expenses is renting a Park Model/destination trailer at a local mobile home park close to where they're stationed. Fully furnished with everything you'd need for $500-600 per month, utilities included. Newer ones are quite large and modern. Not the Taj Mahal of course but a lot less expensive than the small houses and apartments that are usually rented out. Quieter neighborhoods too.
 
Not to derail the thread, but I chuckled at the suggestion. In places where hurricanes or tornadoes happen it is always the mobile park that takes the hit.
 
You'd think so, but where I'm from at hurricane central, it's always those 40 year old mobile homes that look like a strategically placed sneeze would vaporize which survive CAT 4 storms, and the brand new housing developments that always end up experiencing the Great Flood :D
 
You'd think so, but where I'm from at hurricane central, it's always those 40 year old mobile homes that look like a strategically placed sneeze would vaporize which survive CAT 4 storms, and the brand new housing developments that always end up experiencing the Great Flood :D

Not in south fl on either the east or west coasts!
 
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