The Gunsmith Thread

People do pay stupid money for those things. I remember back in the 80s you could buy just about anything you wanted, but nobody (including me) wanted one. Now, if I had just bought a few select-fire AR-15s (for about $550 back then), I could sell them for $20K each, today.

Heck, you could get surplus AKs and SKSs for under $200 back then.
 
Pestilence? The deadliest animal on the planet?

The mosquito. The numbers have been reduced in recent years but the mosquito kills more people than any other. Close to one million people die from the mosquito with the majority being children under age five in sub-Saharan Africa.
An Apex Predator.
.
 
People do pay stupid money for those things. I remember back in the 80s you could buy just about anything you wanted, but nobody (including me) wanted one. Now, if I had just bought a few select-fire AR-15s (for about $550 back then), I could sell them for $20K each, today.

Heck, you could get surplus AKs and SKSs for under $200 back then.
We have a member of the club I belong to; he's a dentist and has more than a few "dental offices" and dentists that work for him. He said he works 2-3 days a week but other than that, he runs the entire company. His hobby?

Class III firearms.

When he calls out to the range and says "could I have three stations side-by-side" we know it's going to be a VERY loud visit. And then he'll show up...

Commonly brought out? His MG-42, MG-34, BAR, Reising, Thompson, all types of UZI's...'16A, and the cutest little thing: a 1/2 scale "Mah Deuce" M-2 in .22! It's belt-fed, accurate, and fun! He says he has an M-2 .50 but hasn't brought it out. He complained that it's too heavy and the barrels are harder to acquire. He has others...when he comes out, it's like a movie set.

Steve
 
Shot some sporting clays this a.m. I had DS with me. We were both shooting Winchester Super X Model 1’s. DS had a FTF from a light primer strike. It only happened once. I am going to replace the hammer spring to see if that fixes the problem.
 
Shot some sporting clays this a.m. I had DS with me. We were both shooting Winchester Super X Model 1’s. DS had a FTF from a light primer strike. It only happened once. I am going to replace the hammer spring to see if that fixes the problem.

In my experience, that may not fix the issue as well as disassembling everything and giving it a good cleaning and re-lubrication. My first thought would be if either one of you have never taken the trigger group and bolt out to clean them? If there's a bunch of crud in the bolt, it can obstruct the firing pin, as well as a bunch of carbon buildup on the magazine tube where the gas system collar (on the bottom of the barrel) rides, can slow the entire action dwell cycle down enough, to create a light strike. So clean first, then try new springs if the cleaning doesn't do the trick. My money is on the cleaning.

This guy has some tobacco product in his mouth and even spits during the video. Classy!


Also, don't ever put a steel screwdriver in a firearm to act as a lever as he does. Use a chopstick or a plastic or brass tool. Steel will scratch steel. Wood or plastic will not scratch steel. Brass will not scratch steel, but you can't just hammer away with it, either. I linked this video, because this guy's shotgun is really filthy, and is a perfect example of why you should clean your guns after each and every time you shoot them.
 
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Thanks for the advise. The gun that had the light primer strike looked like it had a lot of mileage on it when I got it. I previously disassembled it and cleaned everything. I replaced the bolt buffer as well as the recoil spring follower. As far as the trigger group, I usually blast it with brake cleaner, then give it a light coating of Rem oil. I have not taken apart the trigger group yet.

Take a look at a close-up of the back of the firing pin. It looks very worn
 

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Does that peened-over part make the firing pin not completely enter the channel? If that's the case, you could lightly file just that protruding edge off.

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What is everyone’s favorite CLP? I enjoy cleaning firearms and the aroma that comes with it but have gone to REM oil and other non-smelling products lately. I tried Frog Lube a few years ago but got over that fad quickly.
 
I am not sure whether the peened-over part restricts the firing pin. But I would prefer to replace the firing pin with a new one rather than fool with this one.
 
Does that peened-over part make the firing pin not completely enter the channel? If that's the case, you could lightly file just that protruding edge off.

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I removed the pin that holds the firing pin into the bolt and the fp didn’t want to pop right out. It is binding in its channel. I would say it’s definitely buggered. I ordered a new one. I’m actually surprised we only had one failure to fire.
 
What is everyone’s favorite CLP? I enjoy cleaning firearms and the aroma that comes with it but have gone to REM oil and other non-smelling products lately. I tried Frog Lube a few years ago but got over that fad quickly.

I clean (powder residue) with M-PRO 7, precisely because it has no smell or color. I buy this by the gallon.
If there is stubborn copper buildup, I will use M-Pro 7 copper cleaner solvent, because it's faster at dissolving copper than ammonia-based solvents and has no odor.

For degreasing and getting rid of all traces of oils (especially before doing bluing touch-up) I use (Birchwood-Casey) Gun Scrubber. A lot of people use brake cleaner (because it's cheaper), but that typically has acetone in it to some degree. Acetone will at best, discolor plastic parts with a gray-white haze - and at worst - melt them.

I like to spray everything down with (Birchwood-Casey) Barricade, and then disperse it throughout with about 90PSI of filtered air from the compressor. I wipe off all the excess.

Then, I apply (Brian Enos') Slide Glide (lite or standard, depending upon the location) to certain high-friction wear surfaces. I apply this judiciously with an artist's paint brush. A little goes a long way. Perfect locations for this are on the rails of all semi-auto pistol slides, on bolt rails, and on fire control parts. Everything inside a revolver gets a very light coat.

I also buy (Break Free) CLP by the gallon, as an all-in-one cleaner, lubricant and protectant for guns that are cleaned after every use. Break Free also makes CO-4 Collector, which is a heavier coating to use just before long-term (a year or more) storage. It is good stuff.
 
I removed the pin that holds the firing pin into the bolt and the fp didn’t want to pop right out. It is binding in its channel. I would say it’s definitely buggered. I ordered a new one. I’m actually surprised we only had one failure to fire.

Good idea. That should fix you right up. Put some cleaner in that channel and let it sit right around the firing pin hole, while you're waiting for that new pin to arrive. Probably some carbon buildup in there.
 
Good idea. That should fix you right up. Put some cleaner in that channel and let it sit right around the firing pin hole, while you're waiting for that new pin to arrive. Probably some carbon buildup in there.

The bore brush for my 17 HMR fits the channel nicely. I brushed it out and I am gonna leave the bolt soaking in mineral spirits ‘til the new fp arrives
 
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That looks right, but I would go for less-rusty! :biggrin:

Edit: That's sort of a pricey firing pin ($35 from Numrich).
 
I got a firing pin, spring and retaining pin from Nuline Guns in Missouri on the way. No problem, I have two more Super X Model 1’s to play with.
 
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